Adventures in the Alps

Hello from Kashiwazaki! We’ve now made it about halfway through our month-long bike trip from Kyoto to Sapporo and are feeling great. We’ve cycled through five prefectures: Kyoto, Fukui, Gifu, Nagano, and now Niigata, and have covered just shy of 900 km so far (892 km to be exact).

In the first two weeks, we had the chance to dial in our bikes, settle into the rhythm of life on the road, and test out all our equipment. Weather-wise, we’ve been quite fortunate, with only two full days of rain and most of them being sunny or at least dry. We are well-equipped for the wet days. Snow, however, seems imminent as we head north toward Hokkaido. Ski resorts in Hokkaido have already seen their first snowfall and the peaks around where we currently are just started receiving their first dusting.

Although our last week took us on a windy route through the mountains (a slight detour well worth it for the incredible views and quieter roads), the coming stretch will likely be coastal as we make up ground before the trip wraps up on November 16th. From there, Jared will take the Shinkansen (bullet train) back to Kyoto to return his bike, and I’ll cycle from Sapporo to Niseko Grand Hirafu which should be about 150 km of biking, to begin my work contract at Kumo Restaurant starting November 22nd.

Our route through the mountains was nothing short of spectacular. We were recommended the “Venus Line,” a scenic ridge road through the Japanese Alps, by our friend Andy, a connection we made through friends of friends, and oh man, were we in for a treat. Climbing between 800 to 1300 meters daily for three days straight, we rode along one of the most remarkable roads I’ve ever experienced. I uploaded quite a few photos on the “Everyday Japan” page to provide a glimpse of where we were, but “high up” might be the simplest way to describe it. Golden fall colours blanketed the valleys, the air was crisp, and the visibility stretched for miles, leaving us in awe for hours.

It was no easy task to get there. Our final ascent climbed about 1,000 m over 10 km, roughly a 10% grade. We took it slow and steady, averaging about 6 km/h and taking breaks every few switchbacks. Our muscles were (and probably still are) feeling the hours of climbing while carrying all our gear with us. My bike set up and panniers weigh approximately 150 lb... That day’s climb over the Venus Line topped 1,300 m in elevation gain which included passing by countless peaks before an epic downhill where we hit speeds over 60 km/h. The descent left Jared and me buzzing with adrenaline, excitement, and pride in what we’d just accomplished.

It’s been an adventure to say the least. We’ve stayed at plenty of campgrounds, and most have been free! Halfway up our climb to the Venus Line, we camped at a site closed for the season, only to realize we had forgotten fuel for our stove. Thankfully, we met a man named Mr. Ohe, who was camping there for a few nights and kindly lent us his stove so we could cook dinner. We shared our burgers and fries, ironically our most “American” meal yet, and in return he offered us some of his chicken-cabbage soup cooked over a woodfire stove. Although we spoke no Japanese and he spoke no English, we shared a fun evening with the help of Google Translate, smiles, and mutual appreciation for good food. The next morning, we made egg-and-sausage sandwiches and shared them, while he shared his egg-and-rice breakfast. It was a simple but special reminder of how kindness and appreciation for food can surpass a language barrier.

Our newest connection and friend is Hiro, a father and chef we met through our Warmshowers hosts, Miho and Go, from Fukui. Hiro is Go’s younger brother, and both chef and manager of multiple restaurants in Joetsu and Kashiwazaki. He generously welcomed us to stay in the warehouse of his restaurant in Joetsu and invited us to dine at his restaurant, “Yagaiya,” where he served a stunning four-course meal made with local Niigata ingredients. Two of my favourites were a sashimi dish with seven sauces and an “eleven-farmer salad,” both featured on the “Itadakimasu” page. The intimate setting let us sit at the bar and watch his artistry firsthand before tasting it ourselves.

Today, Hiro invited us to his newest restaurant, “Ookubu Terrace,” where we enjoyed an Italian-inspired spaghetti Bolognese, salad, and cheesecake. He shared lots of advice for our upcoming route from Niigata through Akita and on to Aomori, warning us of the recent rise in bear encounters in the Akita region. Right after lunch, we bought bear bells to make some noise on the road and will likely pick up bear spray too. Unfortunately, shorter winters and scarcer food sources have pushed bears closer to urban areas, leading to some dangerous run-ins. We’ve been careful to store food properly at camp, sealed in air-tight panniers, but we’ll be extra cautious in the weeks ahead.

As we gear up for the second half of our journey, we’re making sure to soak in the present. Tonight, we’re going out for Halloween with Sila, a friend of our friend Andrew, and looking forward to a fun night out with people our age. Hiro’s cousin owns a bar just down the street from the izakaya we’re headed to, so it should be a lively night. If only it weren’t pouring rain, but alas, the adventure must go on and the fun must be had.